Well in that case I’d go for 2x 32 sticks and maybe expand that later if you need to. If you’re working with ram then it makes sense to have what you need and to the best one.
IntelliJ here(though that can be pretty damn heavy as well)
Gaming Building a gaming PC
- Thread starter Igor Drefljak
- Start date
The stores I'm allowed to use for my purchases don't have the Sabrent SSD, but can I assume that any SSD with the same specs and with high rating will do the trick?
List:
https://pcpartpicker.com/products/i...50000000000&t=0&i=85&f=122080&sort=-price&D=1
Yeah I use their Resharper tool on VS which makes things even worse. Total memory whore.
IntelliJ here(though that can be pretty damn heavy as well)
Intellij is a great IDE, though. used it a few years ago and loved it.
Yeah if the SSD is gen 4 it will be the same. It’s just Sabrent were one of the first companies to release gen 4 but yeah they’ll all be much much faster than gen 3.
@MaxiPaxi
Final suggestion needed! The store doesn't have the GPU you suggested. Which of the following would you recommend for the motherboard you suggested and Ryzen 5 3600(I don't think I need a stronger CPU than this)?
https://www.komplettbedrift.no/category/19431/komponenter/skjermkort?nlevel=19014§19431§19505&price.min=3000&price.max=3200&price.omin=0&price.omax=112832&sort=PriceDesc
ESCENDING
Final suggestion needed! The store doesn't have the GPU you suggested. Which of the following would you recommend for the motherboard you suggested and Ryzen 5 3600(I don't think I need a stronger CPU than this)?
https://www.komplettbedrift.no/category/19431/komponenter/skjermkort?nlevel=19014§19431§19505&price.min=3000&price.max=3200&price.omin=0&price.omax=112832&sort=PriceDesc
ESCENDINGWhat’s your budget? If you give me your currency I can have a look on that particular website that you linked. The stronger GPU the better.@MaxiPaxi
Final suggestion needed! The store doesn't have the GPU you suggested. Which of the following would you recommend for the motherboard you suggested and Ryzen 5 3600(I don't think I need a stronger CPU than this)?
https://www.komplettbedrift.no/category/19431/komponenter/skjermkort?nlevel=19014§19431§19505&price.min=3000&price.max=3200&price.omin=0&price.omax=112832&sort=PriceDesc
On that website(komplettbedrift.no) I'd say around 3000 NOK is my limit. The first GPU I was thinking of buying was nearly 4000 NOK, but I don't need that much power.
And you’re going to be playing at 1080p resolution right?
Yes.
I think this would satisfy your 1080p gaming needs. You’ll run games 1080p @60fps on ultra no problem.
By "this", you mean all the ones listed in the link I gave you?
Sorry I’m an idiot. I forgot to post you a link.
https://www.komplettbedrift.no/prod...ss/zotac-gaming-geforce-rtx-2060-6gb-twin-fan
Thanks for all the help!
No problem, glad to be of service.Thanks for all the help!
Ok, last question I promise
The motherboard you suggested will not be in stock for about 3 weeks, which is probably fine, but in case it isn't: is this a decent second choice?
MSI MPG X570 GAMING PRO CARBON WIFI ATX AM4
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/tg...4-motherboard-mpg-x570-gaming-pro-carbon-wifi
If you're going AMD, that is a very good X570 board
I'm getting either this or the Asus Rog x570-e
I'm getting either this or the Asus Rog x570-e
Yeah, I'm going with Ryzen 5 3600.
I definitely need WIFI 6 and Bluetooth, so my choices are a bit limited. But this motherboard seems very similar to the one MaxiPadi suggested, so I reckon I'll go for this if time is an issue(getting big discounts if I'm quick).
Yeah that’s a good motherboard. Any x570 will run ryzen 5 so you can pick pretty much anything you want depending on the features you want your motherboard to have.Ok, last question I promise
The motherboard you suggested will not be in stock for about 3 weeks, which is probably fine, but in case it isn't: is this a decent second choice?
MSI MPG X570 GAMING PRO CARBON WIFI ATX AM4
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/tg...4-motherboard-mpg-x570-gaming-pro-carbon-wifi
So I really wanted the Odyssey G9 but decided to talk myself out of it.
As I'm at some point wanting to do some streaming, this monitor sort of makes it impossible, unless I still had a secondary monitor and, yeah, feck that
So instead I've just ordered an Alienware AW3420DW and AW2521HF
As I'm at some point wanting to do some streaming, this monitor sort of makes it impossible, unless I still had a secondary monitor and, yeah, feck that
So instead I've just ordered an Alienware AW3420DW and AW2521HF
| Dear Forti Thank you for your pre-order for the Asus GeForce RTX 3080 TUF Gaming 10GB GDDR6X PCI-Express Graphics Card on order xxxxx. You are currently in queue position 105. Please keep checking your emails, we will send an update after each shipment with your new position. We are working hard with NVIDIA and the graphics card manufacturers to secure stock based on the number of paid pre orders we have received. You can check the latest updates from our Product Manager on the forums. Our telephone and webnote systems are extremely busy and you may experience a long wait. If you wish to cancel your order, please use the following link and we will prioritise the refund of your order: Cancel Form. Thank you for your patience. |
| Have a nice day. The Overclockers UK Team www.overclockers.co.uk |
So will be interesting to see how much they're shipping per batch and how long each batch takes to arrive.
3070 delayed until after RDNA 2 event.
Was upper 300+ for a Gigabyte Eagle 3080 with OCUK - prepared to wait but I've decided against getting that specific card so I've cancelled. A good performer, but it's just butt-ugly. I'll see if I can nab an FE at some point or wait until the AMD announcement and 3080 stock stabilises. Might even reinvest that money into upgrading my system in the spring before I put a new card in.
It's funny how much a difference a few weeks can make on the fear of missing out.
It's funny how much a difference a few weeks can make on the fear of missing out.
I wonder if my 550w gold GPU will be able to handle the 3070 when it's out. Tempted to just cancel my ps5 pre-order and get one, probably still be able to sell my 2060 super for 250 quid.
I'm assuming the power draw will be similar to a 2080ti? 650w would be a safer bet I'd imagine.
For the 3070? Can't imagine it's as high as a 2080TI?
Ryzen's are incredibly power efficient so I'm hoping that would help - I'll wait for the reviews anyway.
Isn't the 3070 as powerful as the ti? That's why I was assuming. Might not be as power hungry though.
Nothing from Scan. So another week of waiting.
https://www.tomshardware.com/news/n...shortages-to-last-through-the-end-of-the-year
@MaxiPaxi
Don’t think I will getting anything this month from Scan.
feck I hope Big Navi is somewhere near 3080 and has the price of a 3070.
It would be absolutely glorious to see - for that diabolical launch Nvidia served up.
Scan, Overclockers and EBuyer are all bunch of cnuts as well.
In other news, I picked up a 2080ti for my new build. Only part that’s secondhand. £500. I’ve overpaid for sure but couldn’t wait. I know the price will plummet eventually but I’ve made my peace with it. It’s still a very capable gpu that should see me through until 3080 or 3090 cards become readily available.
As an AMD user for the past 4 years on my main gaming machine I must say I'm not sure I can take using more of their trash drivers.
I think I'll still be building nvidia as soon as it's easy enough to get at least a 3080.
I think I'll still be building nvidia as soon as it's easy enough to get at least a 3080.
https://www.scan.co.uk/shops/nvidia/rtx-30-series-faqs
Scan showing how many outstanding preorders they have left.
Scan showing how many outstanding preorders they have left.
I keep eyeing up the G7. I've got a 35" ultra currently but it only does 100hz. Would prefer the extra frames of the Samsung over the extra width.So I really wanted the Odyssey G9 but decided to talk myself out of it.
As I'm at some point wanting to do some streaming, this monitor sort of makes it impossible, unless I still had a secondary monitor and, yeah, feck that
So instead I've just ordered an Alienware AW3420DW and AW2521HF
So my first build seems to have gone smoothly! It was a lot of fun! Thanks for helping me pick out components. Big shout out to @MaxiPaxi !
I do have two questions concerning the front panel connectors:
1. The damn HDD LED
So I plugged in my front panel connector using the method to the left(see picture in spoiler tag). I figure that the method to the left means that all of the connectors to the right are automatically connected, without the possibility of plugging out individual LEDS? Well the problem is that the power button is flashing like a maniac. This is supposedly how it's supposed to work, but it's annoying. After some Googling it seems like it's the HDD LED that's to blame.
I'm thinking of unplugging the front panel connector and then plugging in all the individual connectors(the solution to the right in the picture I posted), apart from the HDD LED connector. But how do I plug in the individual connectors to the motherboard? I assume that I will use the same plug as I used in solution one, but now there are suddenly 3 individual pins. Does it matter where I connect them, as long as it's in the same plug that I used in solution one?
2. USB 3.1 gen 1 to USB 3.2 gen 1
My front panel also comes with a USB 3.1 gen 1 port, but my motherboard only has USB 3.2 gen 1 plugs. Will 3.1 also fit, seeing as they're both gen 1? I'd essentially be plugging a slower USB connector into a faster one, so if it's backwards compatible it ought to work, no?
________________
EDIT: Looking at the cables closer, it seems like there is a system for where they must go into the motherboard.
I do have two questions concerning the front panel connectors:
1. The damn HDD LED
So I plugged in my front panel connector using the method to the left(see picture in spoiler tag). I figure that the method to the left means that all of the connectors to the right are automatically connected, without the possibility of plugging out individual LEDS? Well the problem is that the power button is flashing like a maniac. This is supposedly how it's supposed to work, but it's annoying. After some Googling it seems like it's the HDD LED that's to blame.
I'm thinking of unplugging the front panel connector and then plugging in all the individual connectors(the solution to the right in the picture I posted), apart from the HDD LED connector. But how do I plug in the individual connectors to the motherboard? I assume that I will use the same plug as I used in solution one, but now there are suddenly 3 individual pins. Does it matter where I connect them, as long as it's in the same plug that I used in solution one?
2. USB 3.1 gen 1 to USB 3.2 gen 1
My front panel also comes with a USB 3.1 gen 1 port, but my motherboard only has USB 3.2 gen 1 plugs. Will 3.1 also fit, seeing as they're both gen 1? I'd essentially be plugging a slower USB connector into a faster one, so if it's backwards compatible it ought to work, no?
________________
EDIT: Looking at the cables closer, it seems like there is a system for where they must go into the motherboard.
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Absolute shambles. November, perhaps end of, which probably, actually means December, for a card that was released (supposedly) in September!
I joked with a mate that I'll get my card after the PS5... little did I know I was actually documenting the future!
I cannot believe how poorly handled this has been.
Where are you in the queue Bojan?
I assume you have the same as me, the h510? I don't think there's any way to disable the power light, it's a bit much at first but you get used to it. I guess it depends where you have your tower. Mine is low down so I wouldn't really be looking at it.
Not sure if my mobo is usb 3.1 but the front usb works fine for me, if that helps! Sadly my mobo does not have a USB c connector though so that's wasted!
Not sure if my mobo is usb 3.1 but the front usb works fine for me, if that helps! Sadly my mobo does not have a USB c connector though so that's wasted!
Yeah, we have the same tower then.
Have you tried plugging out the HDD LED? I read somewhere that the button flashes to "signal" that your harddrive is connected and that it's the HDD LED that is the "culprit".
Do you have a link to your motherboard?
If I'm reading the question right you're asking how the pins will attach to the motherboard? I've always done it as per option 2 in the diagram and there's approx 12 pins on the motherboard in one location and each one connects to a specific connector (note they are positive / negative so have to be orientated the right way). It's pretty easy to do, but you will need a motherboard diagram telling you which pins line up to which connector and in which direction the connector should be attached.
You can leave off any ones you want as they are just LED's etc. My HDD has a specific light independent from the power one, so the power light is constant and the HDD one flashes when it is in use.
Well yeah a lot of towers have a separate light of the HDD and the Power. It's a bit annoying that NZXT decided to bundle them together, maybe to make it cleaner I guess. I haven't bothered to plug it out cause I've had it a year now and it doesn't annoy me to be honest! I find the RGB off the MSI GPU inside it more annoying to be honestYeah, we have the same tower then.
Have you tried plugging out the HDD LED? I read somewhere that the button flashes to "signal" that your harddrive is connected and that it's the HDD LED that is the "culprit".
Do you have a link to your motherboard?
Hence I've tucked it away in my desk.This is the mobo, pretty much the go-to cheaper gaming mobo for Ryzen 5's!
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07VB2BG3X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
EDIT: it does mention USB 3.2..
The cables are alligned in a way that that makes it easy to see where they should go into the motherboard. Since I've already used the method to the left, I think I can "predict" which pins they belong to.
Aha, so:
HDD LED: what makes the button flash.
P LED + and - : what makes the button light work.
POWER SW: what makes the itself button work.
So I can conclude that the only thing I need is actually the POWER SW connector?